Summer 2007
ESSAY
Altered Landscape
BY PAMELA STEELE
From the airplane window, southern West Virginia looks barren. The winter-stripped trees stand frozen, their ribcages exposed. I hardly recognize the landscape until final approach. The plane banks over Charleston, and from this angle, tilted against the sky, I can make out the familiar soft rise of the hills.
My mother and stepfather don't know I'm coming. In 20 minutes, I
will be in a rental car, driving the last 60 miles of the 2,500 or
so I will have traveled to see them. I won't tell Mom I've taken the
West Virginia Turnpike. Because a high school classmate of hers was
killed on the turnpike a few years before I was born, Mom still
considers it West Virginia's bloodiest highway and warns everyone
away, advising us to Take Route 60. But, Route 60 is a two-lane road
that winds along the Gauley River, and today, there is something in
the air that says black ice. I decide to take my chances with the
turnpike.
I stop in Beckley for a Pepsi and to fill the gas tank. Yards away
from the convenience store, a bulldozer sits on top of what looks
like the bottom half of a chopped-off pyramid. Beneath the dozer is
a level plain of dirt, its sculpted sides planted in neatly cropped
grass. This used to be a mountain.
If the airplane had flown farther south and west on its approach to
Charleston, I would have seen similar landforms standing among the
remaining mountains, resembling backyard dirt piles that children
play on. In those places, dust rises from the tires of bulky trucks
that haul coal from open pits where 800 feet of rock has been
blasted from the tops of mountains — this, so coal operators can
strip the earth more efficiently. If the plane had swooped in closer
to the pits, I would have seen bone-weary men walking on the face of
the moon.
On my last visit home, Mom showed me her coal tattoo. She drew my
fingers to a black spot no wider than a pencil lead that I'd never
noticed just under the skin of her right temple, the point of impact
where one of her brothers — she couldn't remember which — had
chucked a lump of coal at her when they were kids. Then she told me
how Grandma and her kids would walk the railroad tracks near their
house, gathering coal that had fallen from passing trains so they
could keep the stove going in the wintertime. Discovering that mark
on her face was an odd moment. In my 46 years, I'd rarely
touched my mother's body. My father, dead at 27, had been
my touchstone, cuddling and packing me around, letting me poke his
skinny arms and the lumpy shell of belly under which his liver
hardened into a stone.
As far back as I know, my family has worked in coal. Four of my
grandfathers, several uncles and kin for generations crawled or
walked through tunnels gathering lumps of black earth into their
sacks and grainy dust into their lungs.
After my father died, my brother, sister and I spent our summers
with his parents and our cousin Mickey, just three months older than
me, tucked away in a hollow, or "holler, in Mingo County, West
Virginia—one of many such small communities with no name or ZIP code
of its own, designated only by the numbers painted on the tipples
where coal was brought up from underground and loaded onto rail
cars. For 12 summers of my life, I lived at Number 27.
Now, most of those men are gone, and no one in the family works in
coal except Mick. Every day, for 20-odd years, he has climbed onto a
bulldozer and pushed around dirt, filling in and leveling the
dynamite-gouged earth over what used to be open pit mines. Then,
someone else comes to plant trees on those used-up mountains, if
they don't become locations for shopping centers or golf courses.
~
I wake up on my parents' couch where I fell asleep shortly after I
arrived. Mom and Dad were indeed surprised when I walked onto the
back porch and into their kitchen. Now, in a lull between bursts of
TV noise, I hear the mantle clock ticking. I have been asleep for a
hundred years.
I open my eyes. Dad is in the kitchen making plate noises, and Mom
is still in her blue recliner with her knotted ankles propped on the
footrest. She is a bit thinner maybe, but otherwise looks better
than I thought she would. The chemo hasn't yet taken her hair. It's
still a thick tangle of white she fidgets with.
She has been waiting. "Do you want to see my scar?" she says. I
don't know what to say. I have never seen my mother in any state of
undress. I prop myself up on an elbow and swivel in her direction.
"Uh, yeah," I say.
She hikes up her knit top and grins. "I don't wear a bra in the
house anymore unless I have to," she says. I stare at the exposed
left half of her torso. Two purple tracks run together to form a 'Y'
and disappear into her armpit. Below the skin, her chest has been
scooped out level with the sternum, wildly out of proportion with
her right breast.
"It's not too bad, is it?" she asks. I'm uncomfortable with this
sudden intimacy, and I say it looks great and ask about her
prosthetic breast. She pushes out of her chair and scuffs into the
bedroom, comes back holding a large Silly Putty-colored lump.
"I think I'm allergic to it. I get a rash," she gushes.
This is not the attitude I expected from my mother, who delights in
telling stories of car crashes and suicides who come to hurl
themselves off the nearby New River Gorge bridge. She seems almost
relieved to have cancer, actually nearing elation. Later, I will
realize that, in an odd way, this makes sense. This disease has
visited her family before, taking with it her brother, two sisters,
a niece and, finally, her mother. Mom has always expected this, and
aside from the fact that the chemo is strictly a precaution, that
she will likely recover, this is just one more time my mother was
right.
"It gets real cold next to my skin." Mom, usually quiet, is still
talking, and as she talks, she tosses the lump from one hand to the
other.
Dad walks in, says, "Ruth, what are you doing?"
"Warming my boob," she says.
I don't know what to say.
~
Two days later, the airport again. The morning is foggy, dense, but
the plane takes off anyway. Parking lots shine like diamonds through
the vapor, then fade as we ascend. From up here, I can barely make
out the traffic as it picks up along Route 60 and
I-64. School buses
and four-wheel drive pickups emerge from side roads and hollows to
join the molten river of headlights. A moment later, it all
disappears, but I've done this enough to know that below me, the
winter-dull Kanawha oozes past the DuPont plant and the
radiant-domed capital building. Farther south, one or two fire
towers poke through winter-ravished trees, higher than any steeple.
Inside those trees, tissue gathers into buds, and in two months'
time, redbud and dogwood blossoms will levitate among the leaves on
the hillsides, drawing nourishment from the leaf-rich dirt they're
rooted in. And below the dirt, rock that will be shoved into hills
and mountains by time. Below that still, buried deep in the earth, a
greater hardness forming.
Pamela Steele, of Pendleton, Ore., is a graduate of Spalding University’s MFA program. She recently received a Jentel Arts Fellowship, and her first book of poems, Paper Bird, is due for release in July (Ice River Press).